Thursday, October 21, 2021

Ch-, Ch-, Ch-,Ch-........

Changes!

It has been our intent all along to break our Loop October-ish , store the boat, and return to Spokane for the holidays, the ski season, snow blower operations, etc.  And to return to the southern half of the Loop in 2022.   Our vision was that we would make this happen “down the rivers”; somewhere north of the hurricane zone (30˚ North) but far enough south to avoid freezing weather (thereby avoiding the work and cost of winterization.)    Ideally, we thought we might make it to the Kentucky Lakes region below the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers that is frequented by so many Loopers.

Enter Reality Check

  • It's now mid-September
  • The Kentucky Lakes region is still 600+ miles away by water.
  • Only a few facilities “down the rivers” seemed to offer the combination of climate, storage facility, and repair services we are looking for.  And most have waiting lists for a boat the size of Irish Lass.
  • We are, frankly, homesick.

So………….

We decided to declare “Victory!” for the 2021 cruising season right here and now on Lake Michigan.  HOORAY!  We Win!

Enter Eldean Shipyard........

Located at Macatawa, MI near Holland, Eldean Shipyard offered us indoor, heated winter storage for the Lass for a price equal to the combined cost of the ourdoors+winterization+shrinkwrap offered by others.  With the added bonus of a full-service shipyard that could address both seasonal maintenance and some needed repairs.   (Plus, the owner’s name is Wade Eldean.  What’s not to like?!) 

We actually discovered Eldean a few weeks earlier while trying to assist fellow Looper Bye George with arrangements for storage while they returned to Texas for a medical emergency.  All we have to do is bring the Lass back north about 80 miles to their location, prep her for storage, pick up our rental car, and head for home.   Eldean (and our $$) will take care of the rest.   We made plans to be there by Sept 23 with a haul-out date of Oct 1.

Enter Lake Michigan weather........

Not fit out for man nor boat!

To manage Lake Michigan’s weather, one only be concerned with three variables; wind direction, wind speed, and location.    The Lake is large enough that it offers significant “fetch” to winds from any point of the compass.  But where you are (and/or need to get) makes a huge difference.    The common West and Northwest winds can be quite manageable on the Illinois/Wisconsin side of the lake where the shore offers a lee,  but at the same time can wreak havoc on the Michigan side after roaring unchecked across 100 miles of open water.   Similarly, the dunes on the Michigan side offer shelter from the South and East breezes that hammer the ports between Chicago and Green Bay.    But as the winds shift around the compass, there are periods of relative calm, windows of opportunity for well-planned passages.

As we made plans to leave Hammond, the Lake decided to put on a mighty demonstration for our benefit, providing two days of Northwest winds of up to 35 knots and waves in excess of 12 feet.  From our slip, we could hear the waves crashing against the breakwall.  And see locals venture out in their boats, only to return immediately.   We, along with several other Loopers, elected to stay put and monitor the forecast for a window of good weather. 

Two days later, we had our chance.  The winds were backing around from north to south and Windy,  our favorite wind forecast app, predicted a lull period.  After a trip to the fuel dock at Hammond (our final fuel purchase of the season!), we set out intending to make New Buffalo, IN, some 63 miles to the northeast.   Our timing provided correct, and we made New Buffalo in good time.  But the forecast for the coming days called for more high winds and big waves out of the West and beam-on to our northerly course.  Yuck.   So, while Commadore Kathleen once again re-jiggered our moorage reservations, we stretched our day to make another 26 miles back to the familiar West Basin Marina at St Joseph, MI.   Arriving about 3:30 PM, we tucked into the same slip we had occupied just a few weeks before.

Calm before the storm at St Joe. MI

The forecast continued to deteriorate overnight.   And, while we liked the staff and shelter of  West Basin Marina, the shoreside amenities were quite distant.  So we decided we would make an early exit and dash north another 23 miles to the port of South Haven, MI, where the Municipal Marina promised easy access to a visitor-oriented downtown.    Departing at first light on Monday, we made the entrance at South Haven by 9:00 am, just as the forecast West winds began to rise.  

Whew!  (Or so we thought)

South Haven proved to have a nice transient marina within an easy walk to a vibrant downtown of shops and restaurants.  But we should have paid more attention to the seasonal marina across the river.  Memo to self:  If you see 45’ boats in boat lifts along the shore, is it possible the waters there can get a little rough.   Ya think?

Enter Lake Michigan Weather (Again)

The forecast proved to be accurate and by Monday evening conditions on the lake were nye on impassable with sustained winds above 25 knots and waves at 12-15 feel.  And it turned out our marina was perfectly aligned for the wind-driven rollers that came up entrance to the Black River in a West wind.   By Wednesday, we had run out of extra lines and fenders and were worn out from being rocked and rolled and banged against the docks.  And the weather showed no signs of improvement.    Thankfully, the manager of the marina found space for us and fellow Loopers, Aurora, Destiny, and Loafer in vacant seasonal slips across the river and out of the “line of fire”.   We shifted our moorage, looking forward to a more restful night.   Little did we know it would be for five restful nights.

As the winds continued to make lake conditions untenable, we adopted a new wait-and-see routine.  Our days began with a check of current conditions via the Lake Michigan Buoy System and the forecast on Windy.  Then Admiral Maggie would walk us to the (empty) beach so we could see the waves crashing over the breakwater for ourselves.  

Lake Michigan weather is for the birds!

Then, given that our arrival at Eldean was being delayed, we would busy ourselves with preparations for storage.  Cleaning and packing away linens, deflating and stowing our kayaks, folding and bagging the bikes, and packing up ALL those pairs of long pants and shoes we never wore (and vowed not to bring back).   Our hope was to keep our 10/1 haul out date despite the weather delay.   Our evenings were filled with Docktails and dinners with similarly stranded Loopers.

Loopers and Italian dining!  WOO HOO!

Monday, 9/27, showed a break in the weather, again in the midst of a shift in winds (from West to Northeast) and we took advantage.  Slipping out the Black River early Tuesday, we have Irish Lass her head to 15 knots and dashed 25 miles north to the entrance to Lake Macatawa in moderated seas and winds.  We made it to Eldean in fine shape, did a final and through pump out, and settled into our slip for final storage prep.  We were feeling good-to-go!

Enter a message from Aroura

Shorty after we arrived at Eldean, we got a message from Looper friends on Aurora that one of their crew had received a positive COVID test.   Oh, shit.   We had enjoyed their company on multiple occasions at South Haven and she had been feeling poorly on the last couple of days there.  But we never considered it might be coronavirus.  Oh, shit!   We are fully vaccinated and had been COVID-cautious to varying degrees all summer, wearing our masks where they were required.  Frankly, COVID risk had seemed distant.    But now, here it was, right in our lap   What to do?

The earliest appointments for a reliable COVID test were on Thursday.   And the results would only follow up to 72 hours after that.    Electing to “wait to worry”, we pressed ahead with our preparations, albeit with extra masking and regular does of Tylenol and Vitamins D and C.   Commodore Kathleen headed off to the Grand Rapids airport for our rent-a-SUV while Wade dismounted the anchor and the dinghy (storage charges are based on LOA, after all). On Wednesday night, we moved ashore to a motel.    Thursday morning, both feeling a bit “flu-y”,  we did drive-thru COVID tests at CVS, finished the final loads of laundry, and stuffed everything into our  Nissan Armada from Enterprise. 

Friday, Oct 1, we were homeward bound

But that’s another story in itself.

So, stay tuned!

Monday, October 11, 2021

Why Hammond?

 Why Indeed?

Hammond, IN is just about the southern terminus of Lake Michigan.  And it is home to the 950-slip Hammond Marina, an AGLCA sponsor and popular last stop for Loopers before they head “down the rivers” toward the Gulf of Mexico.  Beyond that, Hammond has little to offer.  Think of it as Chicago’s industrial sub-basement and you have just about captured its essence.  But the marina is a bargain (40% of Chicago rates) and is adjacent to the mouth of the Calumet River, one of two entrances to “down the rivers” from the Lake for Loopers.   But, beyond the adjacent casino, it has little to offer unless you like to look at industrialized landscapes.

Polar frolicking at Lincoln Park
Our time at Hammond was brightened by a visit from cousin Charlie McLaughlin (and his CAR! 😊).  By road, he took us to Chicago for lunch at the Lincoln Park Zoo and for groceries.  

By water (the next day) we took him by boat into the Chicago River smack dab in the middle of downtown Chicago.   The historians among you will know that in 1900 the City of Chicago reversed the flow of the Chicago River so they could wash their sewage down into the Des Plaines, and  Illinois, Rivers, into the Mississippi, and out of mind (at least until the folks in St Louis caught on).    This required that they build a 600’ x 80’ lock to maintain differing elevations between the Lake and the River.  

Chicago River entrance

In 2020, this was the busiest lock facility in the nation with over 62,000 vessel passages.  And this was our gateway into the downtown.    On Labor Day weekend, no less.  Sheesh.

If the SS Badger schooled us in ship handling, the boating crowd in Chicago schooled us in chaos afloat.  What a Zoo!   Tour boats, motor yachts, kayaks, canoes, cigarette boats, ski boats, 3-hp rental pontoon boats, fireboats, police boats.  You name it, it was on the river that day.   Our Erie and Oswego Canal experience carried us thru in good form.  But only our constant vigilance and God’s love of sailors kept most of these other fools alive.  We made it about 10 bridges into the heart of downtown before we reversed course and headed back to the relative safety of the Lake.   Still, a unique way to see the city, brightened by Charlie’s informed commentary

There will be a brief intermission…..

Hammond Marina also provided a perfect jumping-off point for a week-long ground excursion (in a CAR! 😊) to Boston for the wedding of our son, Daniel, to Ms. Alexandria Smith.   While Admiral Maggie took a week of shore leave with cousin Lauren McLaughlin in Wheaton, IL, we packed up the wedding clothes (A dress,  A tie!  Even socks!) we have been toting around all summer and made the 2-day, 940-mile drive to Boston.

It was a journey of reminders and revelations. 

·        Reminder:  Indiana remains our least favorite state.  Crappy roads, antiquated highway toll technology, miserable speed limits, boring scenery, etc., etc.   (OK,  Indiana IS the birthplace of the toothbrush, so we have to give them that.  But folks from Illinois point out that if they had invented it, it would be called a TEETHbrush.) 

·       Revelation:  VW still builds a pretty decent car. Our rented Jetta was roomy and comfortable and returned nearly  40 MPG despite our customary 75-80 mph cruising speed.

·       Revelation:  We could never live in metro Boston.  Despite prior visits, a 4-day stay, GPS, and an array of back seat drivers, we got lost every time we ventured more than a mile from our hotel.  The street layout is, shall we say, “organic”.  Even Google gets confused.  Sheesh.

·       Reminder:  What a fine man our son has become.  It was a pleasure to watch him interact in his Bridegroom role with guests and family.

·       Revelation:   How VERY fortunate we are to welcome Alexandria to our family.   Wow!

Mr and Mrs Griffith 

All in all, a wonderful affair.

Meanwhile, back on the water………..

We arrived back at Hammond Marina just in time to do our laundry, wipe the cobwebs and bird poop off IRISH LASS,  and welcome guests from Spokane.  Craig & Diana Miller arrived following a baseball pilgrimage to Wrigley Field.   KC and Jan Constable joined us en route to a business event in WV. 

On Day 1, Lake Michigan threw us a curve, a clear calm day!   So, we loaded everyone onto Irish Lass and ran 15 miles east to the vicinity of the Ogden Dunes unit of Indiana Dunes National Seashore. 



 Anchoring in 10 feet of clear water along the nearly-deserted beach, we enjoyed a few delightful hours of swimming and fellowship (and beer) before typical afternoon winds sent us scurrying back to the shelter of the Marina.

Lake Michigan’s weather on  Day 2 became  “variable”, so we all returned to Chicago by train for a day as tourists.  

Gathering at The Cloud Gate

Building reflections


We took an architectural history tour of downtown via a cruise boat on the Chicago River.  With an excellent guide and someone else driving the boat, it was a much-relaxed contrast to our Labor Day visit.  We polished off the day with  Chicago Deep Dish Pizza (OMG!) and reboarded the train for Hammond.



What's Next?

Well, there is nothing like a visit from home to make you homesick.  But that’s a part of the story that will have to wait for next time……….

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