Sunday, June 27, 2021

Cruisin' on the Hudson

 (Or, when will we be free of these infernal TIDES?)
 

Cruising north up the Hudson River has been an absolute joy after the Chesapeake/Delaware/Atlantic portion of our voyage.   Calm waters, light boat traffic, consistent water depths, pleasant scenery, reduced risk of being blown out to sea.  What’s not to like, right?   

When last we spoke, we were in Half Moon Bay, where Henry Hudson dropped anchor and dispatched his longboat u river in search of the Northwest Passage. (Hudson would later die in the Arctic seeking the same route.  Bad idea, all around, I guess.) 

Departing Half Moon, we headed for Poughkeepsie, NY as the river narrows and the country becomes more mountainous ( by NY standards.  Just hilly, really)    Our route took us past West Point

USMA water view

and the United States Military Academy,  stunning sight from the water.  It was here, some 51 miles upriver from the Statue of Liberty,   we encountered the deepest water (172 ft) of our trip to date.  (Note, there are at least 5 boatable lakes within an hour of the Spokane deeper than this.)  We have  learned quickly that someone in upstate New York has lost a lumberyard and it is floating in the Hudson.  We dodged boards, sticks, logs, and entire trees spread over miles of river.   These have now replaced crab pots as the new bane of our navigational existence.  We arrived at our destination, Shadows Marina, on the full flood tide (full of lumber, too.) with a current of about 2 kts.   Dockmaster Keith coached us thru a unique entrance to the marina, involving entering stern first and crabbing sideways to our secure berth using only the current and our throttles and shifters.   An instructional exercise in trust, if there ever was one.

Our time in Poughkeepsie proved to be busy and delightful.   Kathleen’s 2nd cousin, Patrick

Us with Cousin Patrick

(who recently relocated from NYC) joined us for dinner on the boat, along with his partner Andrew and cousin Caitlyn .  Commodore Kathleen was delighted to have company to entertain and outdid herself with a Mediterranean pasta with shrimp and salad. 


What your $45K tuition to C.I.A. pays for
Our stay in the  Poughkeepsie area had several notable experiences.  We worshiped at an Episcopal parish founded in 1766. We  visited  the homes of both Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, We strolled thru the grounds and gardens of the Fredrick Vanderbilt Mansion.  And we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch at the American Table restaurant on the campus of the Culinary Institute of America. 


Timing our departure at slack water, we proceeded on to Kingston, NY and the Kingston City Marina.  The colonial capital of NY, Kingston was also the scene of Benedicts Arnold’s secret meetings with the British.   ( Fortunately, his efforts failed.  Unfortunately, Kingston lost out to Albany as the post-revolution seat of government.)   The waterfront on Rondout Creek was busy and festive even if the marina’s facilities were 2nd rate.  There are multiple good restaurants, a maritime history museum, and prime dog walking options.

Our highlight here was that son Daniel and his fiancé’ Alexandria drove down from Boston for the weekend.    We had a great visit and caught up on plans for their Sept 2021 nuptials.   Saturday, we belatedly celebrated Alex’s birthday with a very good Italian dinner. 

The soon-to-be Bride and Groom

Sunday, they treated us to a Father’s Day brunch buffet at a locally famous German/Dutch bakery before they headed back to Beantown.

On Monday, we were joined by old friend Pat and Kelly Rusnak, up from the Philadelphia area.   With the weather forecast to change, we slipped lines and cruised with them up to New Baltimore, NY and Shady Harbor Marina.  This is by far our favorite stop on the Hudson.  Nice docks, knowledgeable and extra helpful staff, and, best of all, a courtesy car which we used to return Pat and Kelly to Kingston on Tuesday.  Plus there were several Looper boats present, making for nice Docktails event.  

A word about Courtesy Cars:  We love them all because they mean FREEDOM.  To transport guests. To buy groceries. To find a boat supply store.  Or maybe a LIQUOR STORE!   This despite the fact that they all seem to have 200,000-+ miles,  worn and cluttered interiors, permanent Check Engine lights, and the general air of a maintenance orphan.   Each one is a new adventure.

On Thursday, we again moved upriver to Albany, NY  where we had some critical events scheduled.  Our stay was at the Albany Yacht Club,  Of primary importance was a grooming appointment for fur-Admiral Maggie, which went well, despite a big and (and expensive) Uber fustercluck getting her to and from the chosen PetSmart.    Commodore Kathleen was also able to schedule some personal maintenance services (more Uber)  and Wade journeyed to West Marine (yet another Uber) for some larger round fenders for use in the canals.  (Suffice to say, Uber had a good couple of days.  NY taxes Uber fares somewhat heavily.  Perhaps for the benefit of destitute taxi license holders?)

A word about Yacht Clubs:   The term Yacht Club covers a lot of ground in this neck of the woods.  A vey few are boater’s country clubs with all the attendant amenities and membership requirements.  Others are just adequate local marinas with co-op ownership.  And some are a couple of ratty docks, a gravel parking lot, a Tough Shed office,  and an extremely aspirational name.   Most require a reciprocal club membership for transient moorage.  Fortunately, membership in the Holder of Cash or Credit Card Club usually suffices.  Can you say “Ka-CHING!” 

While at Albany, we took delivery of the final replacement components for our dinghy, and she is now fully rehabilitated.  Plus our insurance company (finally) came thru with full payment for our loss.  Can we get a “Woo Hoo!”?

Friday was a BIG DAY!   Leaving Albany Yacht Club for our destination at Waterford NY, we transited OUT FIRST LOCK, a 14’ lift on the Hudson River, in the company of our new friends Larry and Mary aboard Living the Dream   With Commodore Kathleen manning the lines and Wade at the helm,  we scored a Perfect 10 our first time out!  

Yay, us!!!

As an added bonus, this means we are now finally (154miles upriver from NYC!)  free of the tyranny of tides!   

We will rest a few days in Waterford NY before we begin our westward journey on  the Erie Canal

NOTE:  No matter who you are, the Mclaughlin family of Oak Park, IL, and the Rusnak family of Newtown, PA have you outpaced by at least 2 to 1 in visits to the boat.  So, step it up if you’re coming, bucko!!!


 

Thanks for following

7 comments:

  1. It is good to know you are on the move again. It is great you had time to visit with your family and friends. What an adventure! It sounds, fun, challenging and expensive LOL. You are missed in the very HOT northwest but I hope you are having the time of your life. Blessings!!

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  2. love the pics and detailed narrative. love don

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  3. Enjoy the cool weather. 100-111 all week. Good thing we got all those deep lakes :)

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  4. It is so fun to read about your adventures! We really would love to join you somewhere along your route, just keeping options open for now...
    Thanks for the entertaining updates. I love the photos!

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  5. Thanks for all the detail - love following you on Google Maps....

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  6. Sounds like a great adventure. Hoping to connect with you on your Michigan leg of the Great Loop

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  7. I always wondered what it was like going through locks and appreciate your detailed explanation! It appears they have their own pitfalls and foibles.... Love following your adventure!!

    Mike Coykendall

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