Tomato, Tomatoe, Potato, Potatoe,

Mackinac, Mackinaw,

After reprovisioning in Mackinaw City (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”)  we made a short, smooth run to the resort-y destination of Mackinac Island (also pronounced “Mack-in-aw”).  Now, this is a VERY interesting place.  It is a seasonal resort island that boasts 400 year-round residents, another 2000 or so seasonal residents, 18 (non-chain only) hotels, 3 dozen (non-chain only) restaurants, one doctor, five churches, three cars, five veterinarians,  600 draft horses (yes, really), and about a bazillion (ok, maybe 2,000) bicycles. 

Wait! Huh? What?

Downtown Mackinac Island

Accessible only by water or air, Mackinac Island (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”), by law, forbids motorized vehicles (the 3 cars mentioned above are one police/EMT truck and two fire trucks).   All ground transit is horse-drawn, peddle powered, or on foot.  And it is blissfully quiet.  No Harley’s rapping their pipes, no diesel Dodge Rams rolling coal, no 18-wheelers with jake brakes, no garbage trucks dropping dumpsters.   Nada.  Zippo, None.  Even UPS delivered by freight wagon.  And garbage is collected early every morning by two-horse, two-man teams.      

The only unnatural sound is from the thousands of tourists who arrive and depart by ferry daily. (Oh, and from the 30 or so Loopers gathered in the Michigan DNR marina, once Docktail hour rolls around.)

Mackinac Island (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”) is also famous for its fudge.   It is creamy and delicious and has been an island mainstay for over 100 years.  They sell it everywhere and free samples are common, as are long lines.   In fact, if you wait patiently for a freebie at every outlet, you can reportedly accumulate over a pound and a half for your trouble.  

The centerpiece of the island's tourism is the Grand Hotel.  America’s largest and oldest summer hotel, it dates from 1887 and boasts 388 rooms, each unique in space and décor.  It offers a golf course, spa, theater, pool/waterpark, high tea,  and several restaurants. It is particularly famed for its long and luxurious front porch, an extension of the lobby really.  The ceiling of the porch is cunningly painted sky blue, which reportedly makes the island's insects think it is the open sky and causes them to go elsewhere for bite-able/sting-able fare.  The hotel was also the scene of the movie Somewhere in Time (1980, Christopher Reeve, Jane Seymour.)  And it has a dress code.

Yes, you heard it correctly.  A dress code.

After 6:00 pm, gentlemen are expected to wear a coat and tie and ladies must be in slacks, skirts, or dresses in public areas. No shorts, no denim, no sweats, no bare midriffs, no AC/DC t-shirts, no backward trucker hats, or “pinch ’tween check and gum”.  

Full disclosure:  The foregoing is based on 1) a sign (pictured below) at the entrance to the hotel grounds, 2) the hotel website,  and 3) the range of attire we observed in the hotel lobby before 6:00.  We did not actually observe the staff frog-marching anyone from the premises for their NASCAR sartorial splendor.  (Although it would have been fun to watch!)  But good for the Grand for trying to maintain some standards.  (Plus, they charge $10/person for non-guests to wander their lobby.  Refundable if you eat there. Yes, really.)    

We joined a group of Loopers for a horse carriage tour of the Island.  Our driver, Nathan (a physical therapy student from Romania) gave us a very informative history lesson while urging his team of Percherons through town, up past the Grand Hotel, and through the woods at the top of the island.  

Nathan drives his team.

On the descent, we opted to off-load at Fort Mackinac (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”), a historic 18^th-19th century French/British/American trading and military outpost with well-preserved buildings and displays, and a cadre of reenactors in uniform conducting demonstrations.  Once part of our 2^nd National Park (after Yellowstone), it is now administered by the State of Michigan.

Sadly, our two-night stay at Mackinac Island (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”) passed too quickly and on August 18^th, we set off on glassy seas on a course due west destined for the Mackinac Bridge (pronounced “Mack-in-aw”) and Lake Michigan.   

But as we approached the bridge, we heard an odd  Securitie’ call on the VHF radio warning of construction activity on the bridge and warning boaters to “avoid the North, Center, and South spans” for fear of possible falling debris.    With our binoculars, we could see orange road construction signs, parked trucks and equipment, and slowing traffic.  But the bridge only has three spans, South, Center and North.   So, is it closed?   Can we pass?  What to do?   We hailed a law enforcement boat idling beneath the bridge and were advised to use the North span.  Apparently, the Securitie’ call was a bit, shall we say, overzealous?  Regardless, we sailed through without being bombarded and set a course for St. James Harbor on Beaver Island, Lake Michigan’s largest Island.

But that will have to wait for next time.

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